As perfumers, we are frequently asked to explain “What is Sillage?” or “Why is Sillage so important?“
Perfume is an art form that goes beyond the sense of smell, it has the power to evoke emotions, create memories, and to leave a lasting impression.
One crucial aspect of fragrance is its sillage, the enchanting trail it leaves behind to mesmerize long after you have left.
In this article, we will explore the concept of sillage:
- its definition,
- historical significance,
- how to find a perfume with good sillage, and we
- highlight both classic and contemporary fragrances known for their excellent sillage.
Sillage, derived from the French word for “wake” or “trail,” refers to the olfactory footprint left by a perfume as it diffuses in the surrounding space.
It represents the projection and longevity of a fragrance, capturing its ability to linger and be noticed even when the wearer has moved away. Sillage is a vital characteristic that adds depth and allure to a perfume, enhancing its overall impact and making it more memorable.
The concept of sillage can be traced back centuries when perfumes were first created and used.
In ancient civilizations, fragrances were considered a luxury and symbol of status. It was believed that the lingering trail of scent left by a person represented their presence and allure.
Perfumers and wearers alike recognised the significance of sillage as an extension of one’s identity and the power of seduction.
What is Sillage?
Sillage is the result of multiple factors working together harmoniously in a perfume.
It is influenced by the concentration and quality of ingredients, the artistry of the perfumer, the fragrance’s structure, and the chemistry of the wearer’s skin.
A well-balanced composition, with carefully chosen top, middle, and base notes, contributes to a perfume’s ability to create a captivating and long-lasting sillage.
Factors of Sillage?
When seeking a perfume with good sillage, several factors influence it:
- Concentration: Opt for perfumes with higher concentrations, such as eau de parfum or parfum, as they contain more aromatic oils, resulting in enhanced projection and longevity.
- Fragrance Families: Certain fragrance families are known for their strong sillage, such as oriental, woody, or spicy. Exploring perfumes within these families can lead to scents with excellent projection.
- Perfume Strength: Look for keywords like “intense,” “extrême,” or “absolue” in the perfume’s name or description. These indicate a stronger version or formulation of the fragrance, which often comes with better sillage.
- Test and Experience: Visit perfume boutiques or counters to test different perfumes on your skin. Allow the fragrance to evolve over time and pay attention to its projection and longevity. Sampling perfumes in various environments and climates can provide a more accurate assessment of their sillage.
How To Increase Sillage?
Once you have found your perfume with excellent, how can you increase the effect on you? The trade-off for making your perfume sillage stronger using the techniques we describe here, is that it won’t last as long.
- Pulse Points: to make your perfume sillage stronger, apply it to areas of your body that are warmer because the blood vessels are close to the surface of your skin, e.g. your pulse points.
- Area: the bigger the area you apply your fragrance to, the stronger the perfume sillage will be, as it will have a bigger surface area from which it can evaporate. If you want a strong fragrance sillage, don’t just apply it to your pulse points but also your neck, décolletage, hair, arms and even your scarf and clothes (as long as you have tested that your perfume doesn’t discolour them).
- Don’t cover it: to make your perfume sillage stronger apply to your exposed skin, e.g. the neck, bare arms & hands, … or your hair. Don’t apply it in areas that are covered by clothes, e.g. body.
- No oil: don’t apply your perfume to areas where you applied lotion or oil, as the oil will bind with your perfume and will hold it back. In other words, the sillage will less strong.
There is one technique that we do not find makes perfume sillage stronger:
- Layering: we see fragrance enthusiast recommending that you should layer different fragrances to make the perfume sillage stronger. They obviously feel that it works. This is, however, easily explained because if you spray a perfume several times it becomes stronger, regardless of whether you spray the same or a different fragrances. In other words, it refers back to ‘concentration’ we mention above, i.e. your perfume gets stronger the more oil you apply, … which is obvious. Equally, if you layer a perfume with strong sillage over a weak one, the overall fragrance sillage becomes stronger but why not apply the perfume with strong sillage twice, as it will dominate the overall note anyway. In other words, there is nothing within the technique of layering that makes a perfume’s sillage stronger.
Perfumes With Excellent Sillage?
Here we list a few examples of fragrances known for their excellent Sillage:
- Chanel No. 5: This iconic fragrance, created by Ernest Beaux in 1921, has remarkable sillage. Its blend of aldehydes, florals, and warm undertones leaves a captivating trail that has become legendary.
- Guerlain Shalimar: Introduced in 1925, Shalimar’s oriental composition, with notes of citrus, vanilla, and amber, creates a luxurious and powerful sillage that has mesmerized generations.
- Christian Dior Poison: Launched in 1985, Poison is a bold and intense fragrance with strong sillage. Its distinctive blend of spicy notes, rich florals, and dark woods exudes a sense of mystery and allure, making it impossible to ignore.
- Yves Saint Laurent Opium: Opium, released in 1977, is known for its opulent and exotic character. With its oriental composition featuring warm spices, sweet florals, and resinous notes, Opium creates a captivating sillage that commands attention and leaves a lasting impression.
- Tom Ford “Black Orchid”: Launched in 2006, Black Orchid’s rich blend of dark florals, spices, and woods envelops the wearer in an aura of mysterious and seductive sillage.
- Maison Francis Kurkdjian “Baccarat Rouge 540”: This contemporary fragrance combines floral, woody, and amber notes in an intricate composition. Baccarat Rouge 540 leaves a trail of elegance and sophistication, with its intense sillage capturing attention and admiration.
- Viktor & Rolf “Flowerbomb”: Flowerbomb, introduced in 2005, is a powerful and captivating floral fragrance. Its explosion of sweet floral notes, enhanced by warm and creamy undertones, creates an enveloping sillage that is both alluring and unforgettable.
- By Kilian “Good Girl Gone Bad”: This modern composition by Kilian Hennessy features a bouquet of white florals, accentuated by creamy undertones. Good Girl Gone Bad boasts excellent sillage, leaving a sensual and seductive trail that lingers in the air.
- Pairfum London “Mandarin Blossom & Sandalwood”: this fragrance was presented in 2021 and is an excellent Chypre that combines the beautifully fresh floracy of Mandarin Blossom with the wonderful creamy warmth of Sandalwood to create exceptional sillage.
Finding Fragrances With Excellent Sillage?
When trying to find fragrances with excellent sillage, we highly recommend our Natural Niche Perfumes and we invite you to visit our Online Perfume Boutique.
Another way to discover the sillage of a variety of fragrances is by using ‘Fragrance Libraries’, ‘Discovery Boxes’ or ‘Perfume Experience Boxes’. Here at Pairfum London we offer a wonderful Perfume Experience Box with 12 x Eau de Parfum Intense and it allows you discover each one of our perfumes and experience their Sillage.