Huib Maat

There is a discussion the perfumery world whether the term ‘oriental fragrance’ should be replaced. In this article we explore each side of this discussion and present the alternatives that are being debated and the merit of each.

Origin of the Term ‘Oriental Fragrance’ in Perfumery

The term “oriental fragrance” in perfumery dates back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It was used to describe a fragrance family characterised by rich, warm, and exotic scents, often featuring notes such as amber, vanilla, spices, and resins. The term “oriental” was inspired by the Western fascination with the “Orient,” a term historically used in Europe to refer to the regions of Asia and the Middle East. This fascination was often steeped in colonialist attitudes and exoticism, viewing these regions as mysterious, luxurious, and opulent.

In perfumery, “oriental” was used to evoke a sense of the exotic, the unknown, and the luxurious. Early oriental fragrances were created with ingredients that were considered rare and precious in Europe at the time, such as sandalwood, musk and frankincense. These scents were intended to transport the wearer to an imagined distant land, often idealised and romanticised by Western sensibilities.

Discussion on Replacing the Term ‘Oriental’

In recent years, there has been growing debate within the fragrance industry about whether the term “oriental” should be replaced. This discussion is part of a broader movement to reassess language and terminology that may carry colonial or outdated connotations.

Arguments for Replacing the Term

1. Cultural Sensitivity: Critics argue that the term “oriental” is outdated and rooted in colonialist perspectives that view the East as exotic and mysterious in a reductive way. The term can be seen as reinforcing stereotypes and failing to acknowledge the rich diversity of cultures and traditions in Asia and the Middle East.
2. Inclusivity: In a globalised world, there is a push for language that is inclusive and respectful of all cultures. Replacing “oriental” with a more neutral and descriptive term is seen as a step towards acknowledging and respecting the origins of the ingredients and the cultures that have used them for centuries.
3. Modernisation of the Industry: The fragrance industry, like many others, is evolving, and there is a desire to modernise its language to reflect contemporary values. Moving away from the term “oriental” is part of a broader effort to make the industry more relevant and respectful in today’s society.

Arguments Against Replacing the Term

1. Heritage and Tradition: Some argue that “oriental” has been a long-standing term in perfumery with a well-understood meaning within the industry. Replacing it might erase the historical context and legacy of many classic fragrances that have been identified with this family.
2. Industry Recognition: The term “oriental” is widely recognised and understood by both industry professionals and consumers. Changing it could lead to confusion and disrupt the established categorisation of fragrances, making it more difficult for people to find and describe scents.
3. Aesthetic and Marketing Appeal: For some, the term “oriental” carries a certain allure and romance that is difficult to replicate with alternative terms. It is considered by some as an integral part of the branding and storytelling associated with these types of fragrances.

Alternative Names & Their Merits

Several alternative names have been proposed to replace “oriental” in the fragrance lexicon. Each comes with its own merits and considerations:

1. Amber: This term is already used within the industry and refers to the warm, resinous, and sweet facets of the “oriental fragrance” category. It is descriptive of the key note often found in these fragrances and carries no colonial connotations. However, it may not fully encompass the broader range of scents that fall under the “oriental” family, which also includes spicy and woody elements.
2. Resinous: This term highlights the use of resins such as frankincense, myrrh, and benzoin, which are central to many oriental fragrances. It is a more precise descriptor of the ingredients and can apply to a wide range of scents. However, it might be too specific and may not capture the full warmth and richness typically associated with the “oriental perfume” family.
3. Ambery-Spicy: This combined term attempts to describe the dual characteristics often found in “oriental fragrances”: the warmth of amber and the heat of spices. It is more comprehensive than “amber” alone and can help convey the complexity of these scents. The downside is that it is a longer, less elegant term and might not resonate as well in marketing.
4. Woody-Spicy: This term focuses on the woody and spicy aspects of the fragrances traditionally classified as “oriental.” It is descriptive and avoids the problematic connotations of “oriental.” However, like “ambery-spicy,” it might be too narrow and could exclude some fragrances that do not have a prominent woody aspect.
5. Balsamic: The term “Balsamic” refers to a rich, warm, and slightly sweet aroma that is reminiscent of resins, balsams, and sometimes vanilla or tonka bean. This alternative name focuses on the smooth, enveloping quality of many fragrances traditionally classified as “oriental,” particularly those that feature notes like benzoin, Peru balsam, and labdanum. “Balsamic” effectively captures the essence of these deep, resinous scents while avoiding any colonial connotations. However, it may not fully represent the broader range of spicy or woody elements found in the “oriental” category, potentially narrowing the perception of this diverse fragrance family.
6. Powdery: The term “Powdery” highlights the soft, velvety texture often found in fragrances with a “cosmetic” or “makeup-like” scent, which is characteristic of many “oriental perfumes”. This alternative name focuses on the ethereal and often nostalgic quality that these fragrances can evoke, particularly when notes like iris, heliotrope, or vanilla are present. While “Powdery” successfully captures one facet of these complex scents, it may be too specific and does not encompass the full warmth, spice, or depth that typically defines the broader “oriental” category. As such, it might be best suited as a sub-category descriptor rather than a complete replacement.
7. Gourmand: The term “Gourmand” refers to fragrances that evoke the scent of edible, often dessert-like ingredients such as vanilla, caramel, chocolate, and spices. This alternative name highlights the delicious, indulgent aspect of many scents that might traditionally fall under the “oriental” category, focusing on their sweet and appetising qualities. “Gourmand” is a popular and well-recognised term in perfumery, effectively capturing the rich, mouth-watering essence of these fragrances. However, it may not cover the full range of complex, spicy, or woody notes typically associated with “oriental” fragrances, making it more suitable as a sub-category rather than a comprehensive replacement. Equally, ‘Gourmand’ has now gained traction as a term to describe its own family of fragrances that are ‘gourmet food’ inspired.
8. Sweet: The term “Sweet” directly addresses the sugary, honeyed, or syrupy qualities often found in fragrances that might traditionally be labelled as “oriental.” This alternative is straightforward and widely understood, making it easy for consumers to relate to. However, “Sweet” may oversimplify the diverse and multifaceted nature of these fragrances, which often include spicy, resinous, or woody elements that contribute to their complexity. As a result, while “Sweet” can be a useful descriptor, it may not fully capture the depth and richness that are hallmarks of the broader fragrance family. Perfumers also don’t like the term ‘sweet’ as it is not a precise olfactive description.
9. Warm: The term “Warm” is used to describe fragrances that convey a sense of heat, comfort, and enveloping richness, often found in scents with notes of amber, spices and woods. This alternative name is appealing for its ability to convey the inviting, soothing quality that is central to many “oriental” fragrances. “Warm” is a versatile term that can encompass a wide range of scents within the traditional “oriental” category, making it a strong candidate for a more inclusive and culturally neutral replacement. However, while “Warm” effectively captures the essence of these fragrances, it may lack the specificity needed to distinguish between the various subcategories, such as those that are more spicy or ambery.
10. Exotic, Mysterious, Precious: These terms aim to evoke the allure and intrigue traditionally associated with “oriental” fragrances by highlighting their rich, luxurious, and often enigmatic qualities. “Exotic” and “mysterious” capture the sense of otherworldliness and allure, while “precious” emphasises the value and rarity of the ingredients often used in these scents, such as oud, amber, and rare spices. However, these terms may still carry some of the same issues as “oriental,” as they can perpetuate a romanticised or reductive view of non-Western cultures. While they effectively convey the luxurious and complex nature of these fragrances, their use might not fully address concerns about cultural sensitivity.
11. Arabic: The term “Arabic” directly references the Middle Eastern origin of many of the ingredients and traditions that inspire this fragrance family, such as oud, frankincense, and myrrh. It highlights the cultural and geographic roots of these scents, offering a more specific and respectful alternative to “oriental.” However, using “Arabic” may also narrow the perception of these fragrances, potentially excluding the broader influence of other Asian cultures. Additionally, it might be too specific, as not all fragrances within the traditional “oriental” category are solely influenced by Arabic culture. While it is a more culturally appropriate term, it may not fully capture the diversity of the fragrance family.
12. Golden: The term “Golden” evokes a sense of warmth, luxury, and opulence, qualities often associated with the rich, amber-like notes found in traditional “oriental” fragrances. It suggests a radiant and glowing character, highlighting the luminous and enveloping nature of these scents. “Golden” can effectively capture the essence of fragrances that are warm, sweet, and slightly spicy, offering a more neutral and visually evocative alternative to “oriental.” However, while it conveys richness and elegance, “Golden” might not fully encompass the complexity and diversity of this fragrance family, particularly the more resinous, spicy, or woody aspects that are also central to these scents.

Within the industry and amongst fragrance professionals, the term ‘amber’ has a lot of advocates despite its drawbacks. Here at Pairfum London, we endorse the term ‘amber’ but believe it is too ingredient specific. We also advocate ‘balsamic’ or ‘arabic’ as suitable replacements.

It is, however, clear from the discussion that there is no ideal or obvious term to replace ‘oriental’ to describe this family of fragrances.

Conclusion?

The discussion around replacing the term “oriental” in perfumery reflects broader societal shifts towards cultural sensitivity and inclusivity. While there are valid arguments on both sides, the industry is increasingly leaning towards adopting alternative terms.

Each proposed name has its merits, and the choice may ultimately come down to which best balances historical respect with modern relevance. The adoption of a new term could lead to a more respectful and accurate description of this diverse and rich fragrance family.

Which name do you favour?

Oriental Fragrance by Pairfum London

In the meantime and while the discussion continues, we invite you to sample the oriental perfumes that we offer:

Cardamom, Tonka & White Oud:
This rich, passionate fragrance opens with Lime & Mandarin, Cardamom, Nutmeg, Clove and fruity hints of Cassis. At the heart of this accord are spicy White Lily, Rose and Orange Blossom. A sensual base of Tonka, White Oud, Cedar, Santal and Amber rounds off this creation.

Spiced Coffee & Oaked Vanilla:
This warm, Oriental Spicy Fragrance opens with the top notes of Pink Pepper, Orange Blossom and Crisp Pear. The Heart of the Fragrance is a modern blend of rich & dark Coffee with the elegance of Jasmin. The elegant finale is a sophisticated base of Vanilla aged in Oak, Patchouli and Cedar.

Spiced Rum, Lime & Guaiac Wood:
This Connoisseur’s accord opens with the intense aroma of Rum, nuances of Lime & Lemon and a radiant combination of Nutmeg & Pepper. The heart is deep and rich with Tuberose, Iris and Vintage Leather. A fond of Guaiac Wood, Cedarwood, Golden Amber, Vanilla Pod and Musk complete this luxurious fragrance.