Evergreen

Do you have a Perfume Personality and do you know what it is?

If you are trying to buy that ‘Perfect Perfume’ for someone special, how do you go about choosing it?

It can be a very difficult task as perfumes are very personal and different scents evoke different memories and emotions for different people. In some cases what smells wonderful on you might not suit someone else, since everyone’s individual skin pH may alter a perfume slightly. If you’re trying to express your feelings with perfume, then nothing expresses it worse than choosing a badly thought-out bottle of fragrance.

Afraid To Choose?

Maybe one of the reasons that people tend to buy the same perfume again and again, for themselves or a loved one, is not that they ‘love’ the fragrance but because they are afraid to make a mistake when choosing something so personal for someone else, or they are just unsure about trying something different, when it is easier to go to the tried and tested, safe option.

Smell works 40 times faster than the thought process in the brain. A scent can immediately take you back to a moment or emotion, and you could be creating a life-long memory for someone. So,… get it right and you have created a wonderful memory, but get it wrong and you may be creating just the opposite.

For Whom Is The Fragrance?

Luckily there are some simple guidelines that you can follow when picking out that ‘Perfect Perfume’.

1. Remember who you are shopping for! It may sound obvious but we can sometime forget and get carried away with testing perfumes and deciding whether ‘We’ like them or not.  For example, ‘Teenagers’ tend to like fragrances that they see their favourite celebrity wearing, or that they have heard about from their friends in school or on social media. They will, like most teenagers, most likely have dropped not so subtle hints to guide you along the way. We find that ‘fruity’ or ‘gourmand’ style fragrances tend to be preferred by teenagers.
2. If it is for a close Friend or a Sister, then remember all the information you already know about them. You probably know what kind of fragrance the person wears now, or even the kinds of scents they are drawn to, like soft floral or fresh citrus notes. Do you remember some of the fragrances they have loved in the past? Maybe a modern interpretation has been introduced which may be ideal for them.
3. If its for your Mother or Mother-in-Law, then she may have some classic Perfumes she reverts to time and again, no matter what the occasion is. If this is the case, then this is the perfect opportunity to add to her fragrance wardrobe with a variation of her favourite scent.
4. How someone dresses can also give you a hint about their taste in perfume, is it Feminine or Fun, Ladylike or Tomboyish or a combination of all, depending on their mood.  A combination of all would give you a wider choice as they will be open to trying different scents.

Fragrance & Personality

Most Perfume purists would agree that you should work out which of the three feminine fragrance families the person you are giving the Perfume to belongs to:

• Floral – fragrances created around accords dominated by red Florals, white Florals and green Florals
• Oriental – warm spicy notes of resin, vanilla and musk
• Chypre – this is an accord with elements of moss, wood, oakmoss and other fresher elements
• Citrus – lemon, lime, orange, grapefruit, … the list endless.
• Fruity – red fruits, yellow fruits, tropical or exotic fruits
• Woody – notes of sandalwood and patchouli dominate these feminine perfumes

A more in-depth overview of fragrance groups can be found here.

Below is perfume personality that has been associated with these olfactive classes:

• Women wearing florals have been described as carefree, uncomplicated and open.
• Oriental wearers are ‘Larger than Life’, extravagant personalities that love big exotic oriental perfumes bursting with life.
• Chypre or Woody is usually worn by personalities that are more subtle and understated in style. Perhaps, they are classical and their taste is tailored.
• Fruity notes are the domain of youth! It might be because they are still growing or full of energy that fragrances with an edible connotation are their preferred choice.

Also take into account various elements of their interior style, are they Classic, Sumptuous, Minimalist or Shabby-Chic. What are the home fragrances you come across in their house? It may not be something that springs to mind when choosing a perfume for someone, but it can be an excellent indicator of their olfactive taste, and can help you decide which ‘Perfume Personality’ they have.

Take Your Time

If you are still unsure which perfume to choose, then make sure to take your ‘Time’ and don’t buy in a rush while charging through the airport to catch your flight or drifting by the perfume counter in your favourite department store.

Invest a little time in researching and trialling what is the Perfect Perfume for that Perfect Someone.

It will be time well spent, as you are about to invest both money and a part of yourself in this gift and the olfactive memory or moment that you are about to create for your loved one.

You may have heard of the terms such as ‘Pre-biotics’ and ‘Pro-biotics’ being mentioned in association with digestive health, but what are Pre-biotics as opposed to ‘Pro-biotics’ ? While they may sound similar, they are very different and play different roles in our digestive system / gut or in the flora of our skin.

Pre-Biotics v Pro-Biotics

Prebiotics are classified as non-digestible food ingredients that can be utilised by Probiotics in the gut. They are soluble, fermentable fibers that we are unable to digest in our stomachs, which allows them to progress through to our intestines, where they are fermented by Probiotics and turned into short-chain fatty acids that increase healthy bacteria in the gut.

FOS and Inulin

Research has shown that FOS and Inulin are some of the most beneficial types of Prebiotics for feeding our gut bacteria. They come from the same family of fructo-polysaccharides and although they both carry out a very similar job in terms of promoting the size and diversity of our gut bacteria, some research has also indicated that FOS may wield a broader restorative benefit than Inulin. FOS is extracted from sources such as the blue Agave plant which has been found to have the highest concentrations of ‘FOS’ of all cultured plants.

Good Bacteria

Probiotics on the other hand are live beneficial bacteria, that are found in fermented food products such as yogurt, traditional buttermilk, sauerkraut, miso, tempeh, kimchi and kombucha. Many types of probiotics are similar to the bacteria naturally residing in our guts. We have 100 trillion bacteria living in our stomach and intestines, but poor diet, antibiotics, hormones, stress or too much alcohol can upset this natural balance.

It is very important to have a large number of microbes in your digestive system, but it is equally as important to have a wide diversity, which creates a more robust bacterial ecosystem where good bacteria grow and thrive. Natural sources of Probiotics have been found to have a greater variety of good bacteria.

Bacteria & Health ?

Scientists are still discovering how and why exactly gut bacteria plays such a vital role in our health. What is known, however, is that the gut’s bacterial makeup affects us far more than previously assumed. Along with improved digestion, having abundant and varied colonies of good gut bacteria has been linked to better health, such as lower cholesterol levels, improved blood sugar regulation and improved mood.

Fibre

Prebiotics and Probiotics are both essential to your health, that much is clear, but how should we go about consuming both Probiotics and Prebiotics?

Probiotics and Prebiotics can both be consumed through food. Foods such as chicory root, onion, garlic, jerusalem artichokes and beans are all good sources thanks to their high soluble fiber content, as are sources of resistant starch. A fiber that gets its name because it “resists” digestion in the stomach. Resistant starch can also be found in oats, unripe or green bananas and peas.

Are Humans Bacteria?

We now understand that humans are 90% microbial but only 10% human and that the average human has over 100 trillion microbes in and on their body.

Yet we have spent the previous decades focusing on trying to kill all bacteria, e.g anti-bacterial handwash. In other words, we have spent decades and millions of pounds trying to kill or attack ‘90%’ of our own biological makeup.

The latest research is now challenging previously held beliefs about good and bad bacteria. We are now witnessing the shift away from everything being ‘ant-ibacterial’ to a new understanding of the complex bacterial system in our bodies and in the world around us.

We are a symbiotic organism that relies heavily on our relationship with bacteria both inside and out. In recent years, due to new research, we have become more aware of the importance of the microbial ecosystem or the microbiome and our wellbeing, both internal and external, e.g. our skin.

Microflora of the Skin ?

We actually have more bacteria on our skin than we do in our body.

Just like your gut, your skin has a delicate balance of bacteria called a Flora or Microbiome. The skin microbiome protects us from invasive virus-causing pathogens and maintains the pH function of the skin.

Consider this, your Skin is the human body’s largest organ. Our skin is made up of three layers:

• epidermis: the outermost layer
• dermis: the cells in the epidermis are continually replaced with cells produced in this inner or bottom layer. It also contains nerve endings, sweat glands, hair follicles, and blood vessels.
• hypodermis: our deeper subcutaneous tissue that is made of fat and connective tissue.

Together these layers provide us with protection and are vital for our survival. The skin is a protective covering and our first barrier to fight illness and disease, whilst also protecting the body against extremes of temperature, damaging sunlight and it also manufactures vitamin D for converting calcium into healthy bones.

Considering just some of the functions that this wonderful organ does for us, and the fact that our skin works so well during most of our lifetime, we tend to take it for granted. It is only when something goes wrong that we start to sit-up and take notice.

Probiotics are already sold worldwide as a solution for gut problems, but the benefits of Prebiotics are only now starting to be recognised in the skincare industry for the health benefits they offer the skin microbiome and your overall natural wellbeing.

Educating the Immune System

The skin flora also commonly referred to as skin microbiota refers to the diverse milieu of microorganisms which reside on the skin, many of which are beneficial to their host (that means us Humans). One of the many wonderful processes preformed by the skin flora or microbiota is that it also educates the immune system, as it changes and adapts to the environment in which we find ourselves by modulating and adapting the skin flora.

To further our understanding of the health of the skin and the diverse ecosystem that our microbiota is composed of, microbiologists, immunologists and dermatologists are working alongside genomic scientists to develop a more complete picture of the skin microbiota and how it interacts with us, it’s hosts. This work has and will advance our understanding of the delicate balance between host and microorganism. To put it simply, the symbiotic relationship between us and the skin we live in.

This amazing research is completely altering how we look at beauty products, skin health and changes the focus from removing all bacteria from the skin.

For decades we have seen all bacteria as ‘bad bacteria’. This attitude to bacteria and in particular skin bacteria, is changing with better insight and understanding of our Skin Flora or Microbiome and how it works for and not against us.

Pre-Biotic or Microbiome Skin Care

For this reason, which is now over three years ago, PAIRFUM London decided to bring to the market a range of prebiotic or, as they are sometimes described, microbiome skin care products.

This skin care range uses ‘prebiotics’ to feed the skin’s Flora or Microbiome and will help to rebuild the skin barrier. They are designed to provide the perfect environment for the skin and its ‘Good Bacteria’ to re-balance and thrive.

Let’s embrace our bacteria to lead healthier lives!

Pairfum Pre-Biotic Hand Lotion

Pairfum Pre-Biotic Body Lotion

In this article we address the Top 10 Misconceptions About Perfume and hopefully correct the most common held fallacies.

Fragrance is one of those subjects which is frequently misunderstood and many myths form around some of these misconceptions and mistaken beliefs held about perfume.

Does Fragrance Go Bad ?

A typical fragrance contains a large amount of alcohol, regardless of whether it is an Eau de Cologne, Eau de Toilette or an Eau de Parfum. One of the great features of alcohol is its ability to preserve fragrance ingredients and at the same time prevent any bacteria from forming over time.

However having said this, what is correct is that fragrance ingredients do breakdown overtime and the typical life expectancy of a Perfume is approximately two years. This can vary however depending on the perfume.

What better reason is there to use and wear your wonderful Perfume on any and every occasion, to prevent it from reaching it’s end of life date.

How you store your Perfume will also effect its longevity as exposure to sunlight and varying temperatures will cause the ingredients within the perfume to change.

Equally, exposure to heat or noticeable temperature fluctuations will change the odour profile of your fragrance.

Cologne Is Only For Men !

Some people think that an Eau de Cologne is only for men, and an Eau de Toilette is solely for women.

Instead, what is correct is that these two terms only describe the perfume oil concentration inside the bottle. An Eau de Cologne will be lighter or contain less pure oil than an Eau de Toilette.

Eau de Cologne and Eau de Toilette are gender neutral, as are Eau de Parfum, Parfum and Extrait.

A cologne might sound more masculine, but it is merely the name or word used to describe a profile of a Perfume.

Does Fragrance Have To Be Stored In The Bathroom ?

Moisture, sunlight or heat will affect how quickly essential oils break down, regardless of whether they are natural or synthetic, expensive or cheap.

The idea that your perfume can only be stored in your bathroom may not entirely be untrue, that is if your bathroom is one of the slightly cooler or darker places in your home. In this case, it would be a good place to store your fragrance.

A cool storage area or a fridge is the optimum place to store your Perfume, but do not go as far as placing your fragrance in the freezer. Another excellent place to keep your Perfumes is in a drawer, however it is such a pity to be unable to see the beautiful bottles in which they are presented. So again, unlike good wine that you wish to store in optimal conditions for a long period, we believe Perfume should be displayed in pride of place and worn on every occasion.

Perfume Smells The Same On Paper As On My Skin !

No it doesn’t and here is why:

We all enjoy passing through duty free on our way to a lovely vacation or visiting the perfumery counters of our favourite department store.

All of the beautiful perfumes are being presented to us on paper smelling strips. Hence, it is very good question: Why are they doing this ? Will it actually smell the same on my skin ?

The answer is quite simple: presenting fragrance on a paper smelling strip is a hygienic, cheap and fast way of sampling a new scent. It also allows you to take it with you and experience how it develops over time. You will find that you gradually discover base notes or other facets of the perfume which were not immediately obvious when you initially trialled the perfume. The presence of the initial alcohol also makes it a little difficult to fully appreciate an odour profile.

When you like how a fragrance develops from the smelling strip, we all like to test it further by wearing it.

This is where your personal or natural body odour profile comes into play. ‘Body odour’ may not sound very pleasant but our skin has natural oils, healthy bacteria, skin cells and many other elements on its surface. All of these have an impact on how a fragrance develops on your skin. The skin is unique to each and every one of us. We may find that a scent smells familiar on one of our friends or colleagues, but you will also notice that your favourite perfume can have a completely different character when smelled on somebody else.

Have you noticed how your fragrance smells different from one day to next? Here other factors come into play such as the last meals you consumed, the current weather or climate and your general sense of wellbeing.

Even simple things such as taking a shower will alter your perception of fragrance. Let’s say you have enjoyed a lavender scented shower gel. Do you notice how you are then suddenly much more tuned into perceiving lavender in many other products ?

Sounds confusing but actually the best advice is the following:

1. See whether you like a perfume on the smelling strip not just initially, but also after it has had time to develop.
2. If you enjoy the fragrance from the paper, then you may like to apply a little to your skin to see how it works for you.

Et Voilà – now you know that what you were doing all along was correct, and that you should keep on doing it.

(If not, then now is an excellent time to start).

Spray The Perfume In The Air And Walk Into It !

You may have heard this recommendation, and it is indeed a very nice way to apply Perfume, if a little extravagant as you will have fragranced your room along with yourself. Some may find that it is a little wasteful, but you will smell fabulous from head  to toe.

So when you are just about to leave on your way to a special occasion, or an everyday occasion why not spray your Perfume in the air and immerse yourself in your World of Perfume.

Normally though, we recommend that you apply perfume to the usual favourite spots:

• Wrists
• Neck
• Décolletage
• Hair
• behind the knee

These are naturally warmer areas of your body and the aura of the scent will radiate from them throughout the day.

One piece of advise: no matter how much we adore our perfume, it is better to not over do it. With fragrance, the old wisdom of ‘less is more’ really does apply (excuse the pun).

‘Parfum’ Does Not Contain Alcohol !

When we refer to ‘Parfum’ in the title above or in this section, we are referring to the Perfume concentration within any given perfume format, visit any department store or specialist Perfumery, and you’ll find Parfum, Extrait de Parfum, Eau de Parfum, Cologne, Eau de Toilette, Aftershave, these are distinguished from each other by their Perfume Oil concentration.

When someone states that ‘Parfum’ does not contain alcohol, this is actually incorrect and leads to a broader question about fragrance oil concentration. The main difference between types of fragrance lies in the concentration of essences. The order of highest to lowest concentration is first Extrait, second Perfume, third Eau de Parfum, fourth, Eau de Toilette, and fifth, Eau de Cologne. … Perfume is very expensive because it can have up to 40% concentration of essences, however even with this high oil content, it still contains alcohol.

Here are some simple guidelines about the concentration of oils in the various grades of perfume:

• Splash Cologne and After Shave: 1-3% of aromatic compounds
• Eau de Cologne (EdC): about 2–6% of concentrated perfume oil
• Eau de Toilette (EdT): 5-15% but typically around 10% of oil content
• Eau de Parfum (EdP): 10-20% and most commonly ~15% of fragrance oils
• Parfum or Extrait: 15-40% but usually 20% of aromatic oils

The remaining balance in these formulations is for the most part alcohol with a small addition of some colourants, skin emollients, solubilisers and other additives.

Would a Parfum without alcohol not be nicer? not necessarily, as the alcohol lifts and adds freshness to the olfactive profile. It would last slightly longer, but the fragrance would probably feel a little ‘dull’ or ‘flat’.

Don’t Rub Your Two Wrists Together !

We have all done it: we applied perfume to our wrists and then rubbed them together.

There is nothing wrong with this approach, as it helps to spread and work the scent into the skin.

There is only one downside with this: alcohol degreases or disolves the natural skin barrier and slightly opens the pores of your skin.

Some people with sensitive skin may find that this irritates their skin.

In this case or if you simply like to avoid this risk, we would recommend that you let the scent sit on the skin and gradually develop on its own.

The benefit of rubbing your wrists together, is that it helps the fragrance to remain longer on you skin.

All Fragrances Are Equally As Strong !

The short answer is: no this is not correct but there are a few more facettes to this statement.

We spoke earlier about the different fragrance oil concentrations and it become self-evident that a ‘Splash’ cannot be as strong as an ‘Eau de Parfum’. You don’t need to apply as much of an ‘eau de parfum’ as you would naturally use of a ‘splash’.

Sometimes the perception of ‘strength’ is a question of a distinct period of history or era. In the 80ies the fragrance Poison was very popular and nobody felt it was overtly strong. By today’s standards, it would be considered very strong.

Another aspect is the character of the ingredients themselves. For example, ‘lemon’ will typically seem rather strong because it has a sharp, zesty nature.  Alternatively, ‘vanilla’ may come across as being weaker due to its warmer and more rounded profile.

On the other hand the ‘lemon’ scent will disappear quickly, while the vanilla note can last for days.

Based on this, which would you say is stronger?

In our opinion, strength is very much a personal assessment. If you believe that something is strong, then obviously it is, irrespective of what experts say.

A perfect example for this is musk. Some people cannot smell it. They are anosmic to musk. Others find it very strong. Who in this case is right? Actually, does it matter who is correct?

What we can state quite clearly though, is that not all fragrances are equally as strong.

A Good Perfume Is A Strong Perfume !

You saw earlier that the more expensive grades of perfume (e.g. eau de parfum, parfum, extrait), contain less alcohol and these tend to be stronger than a simple splash cologne.

But what makes a ‘good perfume’ ?

The concentration of pure perfume oil in a bottle will determine its strength and longevity when you wear it. This does not make it a better perfume.

Depending on the scent you are choosing, a greater or lesser strength might suit you better, as the amount of alcohol affects the olfactive profile.

In other word, it is not uncommon for a fragrance to smell very different when you try a different concentration, i.e. an eau de parfum versus an eau de cologne.

A perfume with a higher fragrance concentration will naturally smell more powerful and you won’t need to apply as much.

When You Can’t Smell Your Own Perfume Anymore Its Gone !

Our noses get used to our fragrance, and like background music, we switch off and tune out of own scent.

Our sense of smell was developed to warn us of imminent danger: a fire, food that has gone off, the presence of another animal, etc.

Just because we can’t smell our own fragrance any longer, it does not mean that those around us won’t notice it or that it is no longer perceivable.

Only A Cheap Perfume Changes During The Day !

This statement is simply wrong.

There are two main approaches in perfumery development:

• some perfumers delight in creating fragrances that don’t change at all or only very little over time,
• others master the art of a perfume that seems to be changing constantly and offers new surprises and pleasant facettes of itself as time goes on.

Both types can be of the highest quality and what matters more is whether the resulting fragrance is pleasing.

If a perfume is non-linear and changes over time, then this evolution of the scent throughout the day has to be carefully choreographed by the perfumer. If the change only occurs by chance or because cheap aroma compounds were used, then the result tends to be unpleasant like an underwhelming meal.

Only Expensive Perfumes Are Good !

Generally, as a ‘rule of thumb’ this statement holds true and yet quite a number of inexpensive perfumes may be more pleasant than the designer scent of a famous brand.

A famous saying goes ‘beauty is in the eye of beholder’.

The same applies to perfume:

• if you love a scent, then it is good, irrespective of its price tag.
• some of the most famous fragrances, have not necessarily been the most expensive.

Another adage also applies to perfume: ‘don’t be penny-wise and pound stupid’.

Christian Dior famously stated that “a woman’s perfume tells more about her than her handwriting”. Perfume is part of your personal signature or your wardrobe. It is a vital element of your personality.

Apply the fragrance that corresponds to your mood or feelings for the day.

This is how Paloma Picasso summarised it: “a perfume is like a piece of clothing, a message, a way of presenting oneself … a costume … that differs according to the woman who wears it.”

The best advice we can give is to try a perfume on paper and then on your skin, do this as often as you feel necessary and if you find that this fragrance is ‘you’, then don’t worry about the price tag whether it is large or small. Have the confidence to buy and enjoy how you feel when wearing it. What better way to start the day than applying a spray or two of happiness.

Perfume becomes so much a part of our memories, not just our own but also our partner’s, children’s and friend’s.

Like perfume it is much nicer to have good memories than bad ones.

Just one word of caution, If something seems too good to be true, then it normally isn’t.

Final Note

We close this article with the hope that we have answered one of your questions amongst the ‘Top 10 Misconceptions About Perfume’and that you feel more confident when buying your next fragrance, regardless of whether this is a Home Fragrance or an Eau de Parfum.

“Perfumery is an art and when you choose to buy a painting it is wise to choose a ‘Good Artist”‘.

What are the trending alternatives in response to Consumer Concern Over Parabens ?

On the basis of recent Industry Analytics, this article explains the concerns over parabens and highlights the trends in the search for paraben alternatives in personal care formulations.

What are Parabens?

Parabens are an antiseptic, antioxidant preservative used in the cosmetics and food industry to keep moulds, bacteria and other microorganisms out of food and personal-care products. They also help extend a products’ shelf-lives. Commonly used parabens include methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and ethylparaben.

Experts estimate that 85 percent of all personal care products contain parabens.

Click to read this expert article

What is the problem with Parabens?

Personal care products that contain parabens are absorbed through the skin, such as shampoos, makeup, shaving gels and more. Even though the human body can process and expel parabens, constant exposure maintains small levels of parabens in our bodies.

According to the Centre for Disease Control, methylparaben and propylparaben are present in the bodies of in most Americans, with women showing higher concentrations than men.

Click to read this expert article

Parabens have also infiltrated our water systems and a study from 2015 shows for the first time that these anti-microbials are also present in the tissues of some marine mammals, such as dolphins, sea otters and polar bears.

Scientists are still trying to figure out whether that presence is conclusively harmful:

• How do parabens work?
• Why may this be harmful?

Parabens operate as endocrine disrupters, and mimic how estrogen works in the body, though at weaker levels than the real hormone (See references 1 & 2 below for further information).

In an influential 2004 study, researchers found that parabens could accumulate in breast tissue and specifically in breast cancer tumors. The study didn’t compare paraben levels to those in healthy breast tissue or conclude that the parabens caused the cancer. However, the much-cited study set off a wave of consumer concern about paraben use and unanswered questions about their effect on the body.

Click to read this expert article

That concern remains strong today. As more studies examine links between endocrine disrupters and a range of disorders, “paraben-free” has become a common selling point for products marketed to health conscious consumers looking for healthy and natural alternatives.

Click to read this expert article

Consumer advocacy groups caution personal-care product users, especially women, to limit their paraben exposure. The European Union has banned some parabens in cosmetics and tightly regulated their use in other products.

Click to read about this ban

What are alternatives to Parabens?

The global concern over paraben use is leading brands and product formulators to find acceptable alternatives to preserve and protect their products.

In addition to the ever-popular preservatives alcohol and glycerin, other paraben alternatives have been rising in search popularity: phenoxyethanol, sodium sulfate, salicylic acid, sodium benzoate and sodium gluconate have all shown growth in demand.

Conclusion:

Currently, there is no scientific evidence or conclusive proof that links parabens with cancer but there is a sufficient body of research which justifies consumer concern over parabens.

If you are weary about taking a chance using products that contain these chemicals, then you do have an alternative option. Do your research and choose products that do not contain these potentially hazardous materials.

Why not choose the “safe” rather than “sorry” route for you and your Family?

Explore Pairfum’s Collection of paraben free (and organic) skin care produts:

Click to see Pairfum’s Skin Care products

References:

1 FAQ: Parabens and Breast Cancer

Click to read this article

2 Paraben esters: review of recent studies of endocrine toxicity, absorption, esterase and human exposure, and discussion of potential human health risks.

Click to read this article